In short, I have already become what I despised back home on the public transportation network: a self-centred survivalist.
I wasn’t always this way. Back home, I always tried to be courteous whenever I had to contend with the 1800 rush after work from downtown. Sometimes it felt a bit cramped, and people got testy… but I never betrayed my manners. Then, from time to time I’d notice Asian grannies elbowing me in the back or jumping in front of me to get a seat. It was irritating, but acceptable.
During my stay in Shanghai, I’ve been introduced to a new definition of the transportation blues. In the late afternoon and early evening in People’s Square, human logic fails to prevail. First come, first serve does not apply. Standing right by the door does not work. One must position themselves right in between all the people exiting and all the people entering, like a UN peacekeeper, albeit less noble. Then, only after a frustrating struggle, akin to salt sifting through sand, do people vacating the train somehow manage to get off… after people entering the train get on. It takes longer than the “civilized” way, but people do it anyway, because they think the others will cheat and not wait for fellow riders to get off. Defect-defect - tragedy of the commons! Old grandmas will push you into the train if they deem you to be too slow. One time, I half bodysurfed into the train because I lost my footing and was blown in like a limp helium balloon.
My friend down in Guangzhou told me a story about how one time he offered an old lady a seat on the subway. She then rushed to the seat, pushing him aside in the process. No word of thanks or acknowledgment. Distilled it back to the core basics of survival. A totally different set of rules.
I've also had several similar experiences since I got here. It's a good reminder that while principles are important, being too high-minded can spell disappointment. Respecting and adapting to a different culture can include adhering to some of the uglier stuff. I wasn't thrilled about it at first, but now it's second nature.
I’ll admit that sometimes, I even enjoy the challenge. The anticipatory moments after arriving into the station, just after the announcement. Standing in front of the door before it opens while staring into the eyes of my opponents before the main event. Planting my rear foot down and tilting my body forward ever so slightly. And then the rush as the door opens and all of a sudden an excuse to unleash all of my aggression, plowing and crushing through the faceless mob that lies between me and my destination of no particular significance.
It’s perverse. It’s China. And I came to play!
Dialogue
- Fong, ignorance is truly bliss.
- Snerk, I think food brings out my best writing. No Pho in this area code =(
- Free, I'll get back to you on that... once my Chinese improves.
- Char, I think they were gambling games... (I didn't mention it before because I didn't want the beloved establishment to be closed down for "corrupting the diners of China"). The brown dish in my pic was beef, the other one was just prawn heads I cooked for no reason.
3 comments:
I must say that's not a bad way to relief stress after a hard day's work. Come to think of it, I could use some of that RIGHT NOW.....
now you've learned the game, i think it's time to up the anti...maybe introduce some UFC to the chinese grandma's?
yes, Asian grannies can be vicious. once a granny accused me of "preventing the world from spinning" at the busstop b/c i wanted to let her get on the bus first. i suppose our definition of doesn't work in China/HK.
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