The Bund

Graced by the Whampoa River, Shanghai grew into China’s dominant inland port. Opportunity and commerce from the port ultimately invited foreign influence to invade, enrich and transform the city forever. The sailors of fortune: British, French, German and American through their self interest reshaped the city into a cosmopolitan enterprise, and left the country with one of its most storied landmarks: the Bund.


The Bund is the companion of the Whampoa River in Downtown Shanghai. It’s the end point of Nanjing Road East and while a very tourist oriented place, continues to play a relevant role in Shanghai’s economy. It is a long, wide stone walkway that is used by thousands everyday. The city’s “seawall,” if you will.

This is a city of dichotomies. While every city has its share of rich and poor, old and new, the examples here are always dramatic and exaggerated. Staring across the polluted river, there are many grand, new and unique buildings. They are the embodiments of Shanghai’s modern opulence, and symbolize the city’s unceasing need to prove itself to the world. Most of the towers are the regional headquarters of multinational corporations. The strange tower with the bulbs and antenna belongs to a TV station.


However, the most beautiful part of the Bund is not the river nor the modern buildings across it, but the old historic buildings that grace the . Turning around, I saw a long stretch of stone buildings with the beautiful features of old, European architecture. Unlike Hong Kong, Shanghai has preserved its heritage in the these buildings and they continue to serve a purpose. Many embassies operate here. Some buildings have become luxury boutiques (more Cartier stores) while others are night clubs (complete with rooftop gardens).


I spent the day walking along the Bund with ze Germans. There was a massive throng of people there, and vendors were everywhere. For some reason, they all sold the same thing, either motorized mice on strings (why buy those when you can get real mice for free) or this gelatinous toy that would reshape itself when thrown onto the pavement. It’s not a place with lots to do, but I enjoyed just walking along it and taking in the sights and sounds of the place. At one point I offered to help some tourists take pictures. There was shock and awe when I spoke perfect English to them. I get that a lot in Shanghai.

I thought about taking the three hour cruise along the Whampoa River for 70 RMB, but there wasn’t enough time to do it that day.

I believe the Bund is Shanghai’s most important landmark. Of all the cities in China (barring Hong Kong), Shanghai is the most international. It’s hard to imagine that this would have happened without the concentrated foreign activity that took place here.


No longer the area of gangsters and drug traffickers (to my knowledge), the Bund, a previous centre of vice is now a proud representative of China’s history. Even more importantly, it exists to remind China that, for better or worse, foreign influence has always, and will continue to, shape China’s identity.

Diversions

- I'm flying to Xian tomorrow to fight some Terracotta Warriors- will be back Sunday.
- Spotted a huge cockroach in my room last night. Managed to lure it out with a piece of bread tonight. It almost got away again but my tossed slipper found its mark. The joys of living in Asia.